A few weeks ago, I posted a photo of a tray I made for my toolbox (see earlier blog). I joined the corners with dovetail joints as you can see.I wanted to try my hand at dovetailing before I attended a course at West Dean college with furniture and toolmaker David Barron.
I joined the course on the Friday evening and following dinner at 7 pm we were straight into the workshops for an introduction. David checked our chisels and planes and we realized we all needed to give them an extra hone up ready for the next day. In my case this took about 2 hours!!!. Good to tell I hadn't got the hang of this sharpening game.
Bright and early next morning we were queuing up a raring to go.
Our first job was to learn how to cut vertical lines using Davids magnetic dovetail guide and a Japanese saw (a Gyochucho 372 ’traditional’ dozuki.)
The dovetails were measured out, then David's magnetic guide was used to guide the saw blade at the correct angle down to the baseline.
The excess timber is then sawn out using a fine coping saw before the remainder is chopped out by chisel.
Once the pins are cleaned up, the tails are then marked using a very fine knife. The saw and chop process is again used to remove the waste.
David had prepared the beech timber we were going to use for our project, an 11" * 5" * 3" high box with spalted beech lid. We marked out the 16 dovetails an repeated the process we used doing the test joint. Great care was required to ensure all of the corners were marked correctly and kept together.
After a few hours we assembled the box sides and fitted the base. We then added a four piece liner with a cut-away section to allow the box to be opened by depressing the lid at one end. Finally we fitted the spalted beech lid.
The box was coated with melamine resin to protect it and buffed up.
As you can imagine - I am really pleased with the progress I have made with Davids help. I cannot recommend this course highly enough.
Great guys and a great tutor!
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